Wet is the New Dry: Environmentally Friendly Dry Cleaning

Ever notice that funky smell on your clothes when you get them home from the dry cleaners? It sometimes gives you a headache and you find yourself in miles of clingy plastic bags and lots of flimsy hangers trying to rip your clothes from the clutches of the packaging.
Did you know the process of “dry cleaning” your clothes consists of your clothes being dipped in a toxic chemical solution (Perchloroethylene, also known as PERC) and then pressed to a crispy crunchy finish?

Overall the process of dry cleaning is not good for the environment, but what about your personal health? Though just trace amounts remain on your clothes, the dry cleaned duds are still “off gassing” the PERC chemicals while in your closet and over a period of time, even trace amount of this chemical may be toxic. PERC has even been proved to cause cancer to those who come into direct contact with the chemical, especially in employees of dry cleaners. Talk about the perks of a job.

The eco-effects of PERC and dry cleaning are equally grim. Most of the PERC used by the dry cleaning industry escapes incidentally into outdoor air through windows, vents, and air conditioners. Once outdoors, and after a few weeks, PERC breaks down into other chemicals, of which are toxic and some of which deplete the ozone layer (EPA DFE, 2005).
Most of the solid waste materials resulting from dry cleaning are collected by hazardous waste management companies for recycling and/or incineration (EPA DFE, 2005). However, if incinerated, greater problems may be caused, as the "incineration of PERC waste leads to the formation of dioxin, a potent carcinogen in humans" (Greenpeace, 2003).

PERC also contaminates water... the solvent has contaminated one in 10 wells in California. According to Greenpeace, "70% of all of PERC used ends up in the environment where it extensively contaminates both ground- and drinking water.

So given all the health and eco-concerns, it is very exciting that last week, the ever progressive state of California enacted the nation’s first statewide ban of PERC, the most common chemical used by dry cleaners. The regulation by the California Air Resources Board will phase out the fluid next year, banning dry cleaners from buying machines that rely on the solvent. The state’s 3,400 dry cleaners who now use it must get rid of machines that are 15 years or older by July 2010. By 2023, no more dry-cleaning machines that use PERC, a potential carcinogen, will be permitted in the state.

The good news is…you can still wear your cashmere. There ARE alternative cleaning processes, and a lot of dry cleaners are catching on. Essentially, there are three main healthy and eco-friendly substitutes: Silicone, Wet Cleaning and CO2 Cleaning. (Yes, that last one was CO2 cleaning…we know we’re usually talking about how evil CO2 is in terms of global warming, but as a clothes cleaning method it’s totally legit.)

There are other non-PERC methods available, however, CO2, silicone, and wet cleaning are the three most prominent and attractive due to their environmental friendliness and cleaning ability. So how do the alternatives compare, at least in terms of cleaning ability?

Carbon dioxide- This method reportedly gives the best results...Clothing doesn't change shape, shrink, or stretch. with little or no change in the color or the texture of the fabrics.

Silicone-based- Marketed as GreenEarth cleaning, this method is almost as good in terms of overall quality of cleaning. Find a Green Earth Cleaner in your state or city.

Wet Cleaning- This is a system that uses biodegradable soap and water. Computer-controlled dryers and stretching machines ensure that the fabric retains its natural size and shape. Wet cleaning can purportedly clean 99.9% of "dry clean only" garments safely, including leather; suede; most tailored woolens, silks and rayons. (Neckties seem to be the one exception.) Read more about it.

The funny thing is, according to a 2003 Consumer Report, which compared the cleaning quality of all three methods and PERC, PERC (the traditional dry cleaning method) scored very low in how well it actually cleaned the garments). A lambswool jacket was severely pilled. A skirt shrank almost one size. Asilk blouse faded and had a white, frosted look. This was the only method that resulted in an odor being left on the clothes.

Given that CO2, silicon, and wet cleaning are apparently better in almost every way than traditional dry cleaning, why aren't more cleaners making the change? Well, PERC came into dominance as a cleaner because of its superior cleaning power, reduced flammability, and affordability. However if the cheaper dry cleaning is contaminating your soil and water and giving you cancer, it’s probably not cheaper in the long run.

Which brings us to our Tip of the Week: Find a dry cleaners who offers Non-PERC cleaning method and start taking your clothes there. If you live in L.A., here are a list of some local green-friendly dry cleaners, though we’re sure it’s not completely comprehensive. If you live elsewhere, look around and do a little research (even going to Google and typing in “dry cleaners”, “environment” and/or “eco-friendly” along with your city name could yield some feasible results). If you live in Nor-Cal here is a link with a list of green cleaners http://www.ecologycenter.org/directory/results.php?sFAQ=dry%20cleaning/wet%20cleaning.

However, given the fact that eco-friendly dry cleaners aren’t the norm (yet) and may be hard for some of you to find, here are some things to remember next time at the dry cleaner:

1. Recycle the hangers each time.

2. Wash your cotton items (like mens dress shirts) at home and take them to the cleaner to be pressed, avoiding the cleaning process all together.

3. Certain items marked “dry clean only” do not need to be cleaned after every wear (a wool suit is a good example of this). We don’t want you to walk around in stinky, stained clothing, but if it doesn’t NEED to be cleaned, then don’t. Our earth doesn’t NEED any more PERC in it either.

4. Bring back the annoying plastic bags for them to re-use or recycle them.

5. Ask them if they have any eco-friendly dry cleaning alternatives. The more pressure they get from their consumer, the more likely they are to start chaging their processes. It’s the power of the purse.

If 50 is the new 30, and pies are the new cupcakes, then I think it’s time we all fess up to the fact that wet is the new dry… cleaning.